On paper, Malaysian luxury hotel RuMa and Champagne Billecart-Salmon share few similarities. The ethos of the brands cannot be more intertwined.

Billecart-Salmon is the house pour Champagne of RuMa Hotel, a deliberate decision by General Manager Michel Bachmann. (Photo Credit: RuMa Hotel)
Billecart-Salmon: the house pour Champagne of RuMa Hotel, situated in the Golden Triangle district in the heart of Kuala Lumpur.
House pour wine is often an overlooked aspect of a hotel’s hospitality, a mere afterthought of most 5-star hotels with a whole menu of a dozen pillows to choose from. A quick scan of the house pour Champagne of 5-star hotels in the vicinity features conglomerate-owned maisons, such as Ruinart and Veuve Clicquot.
But that is not the case at RuMa Hotel. Helmed by General Manager Michel Bachmann, who is also a trained sommelier, one of the very first changes he made to their hospitality programme was bringing on Billecart-Salmon when he joined RuMa Hotel in December last year. He had planned to use this detail as a differentiator in the competitive landscape of luxury hotels in Kuala Lumpur.

In the world of Champagne, Billecart-Salmon is an acclaimed house that is still family-owned till this day. Founded in 1818 by Nicolas François Billecart and Élisabeth Salmon, seventh-generation Mathieu Roland-Billecart now carries the torch for this continuing legacy. Even their entry-level cuvées deliver excellent price-to-quality ratio, whereas their top cuvée Clos Saint-Hilaire consists of 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs from a rare single-walled 1-hectare plot.
“Boutique luxury,” describes Michel, speaking of Billecart-Salmon. It is perhaps also the most apt description of RuMa Hotel. Both are “boutique” by design; and both are independent. Michel brings with him a decade of experience from Aman. It is little surprise that he looks into details as tiny as the house pour.
Michel’s own personal mission is to “make wines approachable and help everyone understand”, bringing the understanding that wines are not just meant to be enjoyed in a stiff environment, but something for the table. Perhaps if this were any other 5-star hotel, it might have been a challenging feat. But RuMa’s unique positioning provides the most suitable home for Michel’s mission.

RuMa features Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV and Brut Rosé NV across its primary venues, at a highly reasonable price of RM380+ and RM480+ respectively per bottle, sitting at the retail price of these bottles.
A quick scan of the wine list revealed other wines that stood out for being well-priced, including the 2012 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, 2022 Domaine Faiveley Bourgogne Rouge and 1998 Vega Sicilia Unico. 36 distinct wine regions are represented in this list, ranging from popular regions the likes of Piedmont and Napa Valley to lesser known regions of Tokaj and Kamptal.
RuMa’s entire proposition is to be a luxury hotel that is true to the culture of Malaysia. When commenting on the hospitality culture of Southeast Asia, Swiss-born Michel describes Southeast Asians as “naturally friendly”. Technical skills can be taught, but a person’s tendency to be friendly to a guest is often instinctive.
The hotel is adorned with Malaysia’s history, including the bird cage design of the entrance, which pays homage to the birds that were used to test air quality in the tin mines. Despite it being a luxury hotel, the entire environment of this hotel is anything but stiff. It turns out, Michel found the perfect execution ground for his wine programme.

Over lunch at ATAS restaurant in RuMa Hotel, Michel had specially designed a food and wine pairing menu. True to their house pour, the meal started with a pour of Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV, paired with Cucur Udang, a deep-fried prawn fritter.
The Nyonya Kari Kapitan was a standout for me. It was tender in a way that’s unexpected of a chicken dish, while the 2022 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay brought another layer of surprise. Tasting this Auckland Chardonnay is akin to opening a fan upside down: initially lean, with the mid-palate broadening into an extremely mouthcoating buttery finish. It worked exceptionally well with the Nyonya Kari Kapitan.

The other pairing by Michel that delighted me was the 2022 Vietti Moscato d’Asti paired with a modern plating of bubur chacha. It was my favourite dessert growing up, and tasting it with Moscato was a pairing I had never thought of before.
Every single dish had familiar flavours that I grew up with, paired succinctly to the wine world that has now become my career. There is a certain feeling of pride in watching successful pairings of Western wines to a cuisine that hits home for me.

Rumah in Malay means home, while atas means upstairs. Colloquially, atas actually refers to being upper class, a tongue-in-cheek name that anyone who understands Malay would smile at.
RuMa is a “true Malaysian luxury hotel”, but one that is made for the modern, cosmopolitan landscape we are in today.
It is heartwarming to witness this change from a city that has gone from allowing Western programmes to set our luxury standards to standing firm and proud in our own identity, with a table of Malaysian-flavours that holds its own beside Champagne.
Lunch was hosted by Michel Bachmann at ATAS restaurant in RuMa Hotel. Sunday brunch at ATAS features free-flow Billecart-Salmon Champagne for an additional MYR298+ per person.
Asia's essential guide to wine, written for the Asian markets and tables
SGD 10.67/month, billed annually. Cancel anytime.
Already a member? Sign in