Asia Wine Review
Editor’s Note · Issue 004

Roots and Grounding

18 August 2026

"Vineyards endure because they are rooted. But roots do not resist change, they steady it." This line is the reason why I chose to republish an article we wrote that was submitted to another site before AWR was launch.

This also aptly echoes Bertrand Cristau's situation. He may be making wines high up int the Himalayan mountains of XiaoLing, far away from his family's town in Burgundy, but Bertrand makes wines with such a strong sense of identity that you cannot help but admire. After one too many jammy fruity Parker styles of wines seven years ago in China, XiaoLing gave me faith in the entire Chinese wine region. It all came full circle really, watching a wine and winemaker I admire from far being brought to Singapore and now distributed here.

Just like how the warm vintage is affecting how early harvest is (and many consumers speculating about the quality), Mathieu Roland-Billecart posted on his Instagram that their years of reserve wines will help them in crafting exceptional wines, similar to other warmer vintages in the past.

We cannot prevent change. But having the right foundation gives us the confidence to not just simply through, but embrace it to be become better.