The Wachau: The World-Class Wine Region Worth Knowing

Two producers here are worth particular attention for Singapore readers. Weingut Prager produces both varieties from Achleiten with exceptional clarity, precise without being austere. The other is Domaine Roland Chan, whose owners are Singapore-based and bring the wines in directly, offers perhaps the most direct route to the vineyard for anyone in this market wanting to explore it seriously. Their 2024 Riesling from Achleiten was among the most compelling whites I tasted on the trip.

At the table, the smoky mineral character of Achleiten Riesling finds a natural counterpart in dishes with char — think roasted meats with a dark crust, or the wok hei of a well-executed char kway teow. The tension cuts through fat; the minerality holds its own against smoke. It is a pairing that works not because someone designed it that way, but because the wine was built for exactly this kind of resistance.

For those looking for an accessible entry point into the region before committing to single vineyard wines, Domaine Wachau is the place to start. The local cooperative works over 400 hectares from around 250 growers and is run by Roman Horvath MW, one of Austria's most respected wine figures. The wines are quality-focused, honestly priced, and available in Asia. They are not a consolation prize for those who cannot find the single vineyard wines. They are a serious introduction to what the region does.

Kellerberg

Downriver from Achleiten, the steep terraced slopes continue past the town of Dürnstein, one of the most visited stretches of the Wachau, where the ruins of the castle that once held Richard the Lionheart prisoner still overlook the river. Just outside the town sits Ried Kellerberg, a vineyard of similar character to Achleiten in aspect and soil but with its own distinct personality.

Like Achleiten, Kellerberg faces the Danube directly, maximising sun exposure through the growing season. The soils are primarily gneiss with a layer of loess in the lower zones, and the varietal split again runs close to even between Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. What the direct river aspect produces here is a high degree of ripeness, stone fruit in the Grüner Veltliner, white peach and apricot in the Riesling, carried by the underlying mineral spine that the gneiss seems to imprint on everything grown above it.

F.X. Pichler, the most internationally recognised name in Wachau, regards Kellerberg as their benchmark expression for both varieties, and tasting through their range here it is not hard to understand why. Weingut Knoll, based in neighbouring Unterloiben, produces another exceptional version, their Riesling Ried Loibenberg a reminder that the Federspiel tier is capable of more elegance and tension than its middle-tier status might suggest.

For the table, the stone fruit richness of Kellerberg Grüner Veltliner is surprisingly at home against salted egg yolk, the wine's acidity cutting through the richness of the sauce while the fruit holds its own. Kellerberg's Smaragd Grüner Veltliner can take heavier flavours still, including roasted pork belly and anything with a rich caramelised crust; since the wine's structure absorbing the fat without losing its shape.

Kellerberg Riesling, with its more aromatic profile, finds a natural partner in assam laksa, where the tamarind sourness and the wine's acidity reach an unlikely equilibrium. Riesling from this site also has the fruit intensity and aromatic power to hold its own against cereal prawns, and I find myself returning to it equally with Hokkien prawn noodles, where the richness of the prawn bisque base and the wine's mineral spine seem to bring out the best in each other.

Trenning and Grabenwerkstatt

Not all of the Wachau's most exciting wines come from vineyards overlooking the Danube. Four kilometres west of Spitz, away from the river and away from the tourist trail, sits Ried Trenning, the highest vineyard in the Wachau at up to 529 metres above sea level. The distance from the river means less moderating influence, more temperature variation between day and night, and a marginal growing season that until recently made consistent ripening a genuine challenge. Climate change has shifted that calculus, and what was once a difficult site is now producing some of the most distinctive wines in the region.

The soil here is unlike anything else in the Wachau. A unique graphite-marble composition formed from compressed sedimentary layers, it warms quickly in the morning sun and is soft enough for roots to penetrate deeply, making viticulture possible in conditions that would defeat most other sites. The wines it produces are correspondingly singular: saline, mineral, tightly wound, with a tension and length that suggests decades of development ahead.

I first encountered the wines of Weingut Grabenwerkstatt at Vievinum and made a last-minute appointment to visit Michael Linke and his partner at the vineyard the following day. What I found was a producer doing things the hard way by choice, committed to biodynamic farming and close plantings on a site that isn't even fully planted yet because parts of it remain too steep and uneconomical to work. The wines reflect that commitment entirely. The Trenning single vineyard wines are among the most serious whites I tasted on the trip, built for the long term in a way that most wines, even from celebrated sites, are not.

Many of these wines not yet available in Asia. That is the most frustrating thing I can tell you, but also perhaps the best reason to pay attention to what is happening in the Wachau right now, before the rest of the market catches up.